I am not really sure how to start this post and so I’ll just get into it. This is a long one: get strapped for the ride.
A few weeks ago I received a surprising email that a spot had opened up last-minute on the Concord Outfitters’ Patagonia trip. And at a discount. I was able to move around work commitments and went for it.
Game on! I had wanted to fish Patagonia for a long time. I had never been to Latin America, and it felt like a fever dream during the long flights, such has been my desire to fish Patagonia.
Ah, Patagonia. It says something when it is the region that many American fly shop owners and current and former Team USA members choose for their own fishing vacations. It didn’t disappoint.
The crew 
As always the fly shop organized an amazing trip. Vinny Giurleo was our host and coordinator, and his enthusiasm, kindness, and organizational skills were so evident. And the group was comprised of anglers who were collegial and very interesting.
The lodge
I want give a shout out to SET Fly Fishing’s owner: Gustavo Hiebaum. He was with us at the airport both times and joined us for dinner on two nights. Rumor is that he started as an amazing fishing guide. His passion and attention to detail were evident.
SET made the travel easy. We flew in a day early to enjoy Buenos Aires, and SET arranged for the ground transportation and hotel. The next day we took a domestic flight to Patagonia. It was a long journey all in from Boston: 18 hours of flying time across three legs. It was even longer, given the layovers.
But it was all worth it.
We stayed at Spring Creek Lodge where we each had a private room in two-bedroom cabins. The food was excellent, and the drinks were ample. Each morning a staff member dropped off a thermos of hot coffee and lit a fire during cold mornings. There was a mini-fridge stocked with water, beer, and sodas.
Such a “cared for” experience was definitely a first for me. I am a DIY angler at heart. I’ve fished Pulaski alone quite a few times, getting up at 3 am to claim my spot. I almost never hire guides and just like to try to figure things out myself.
SET was definitely a new thing for me. It was a heavily staffed operation, very much the opposite of the bare-bones McKenzie River Lodge in Labrador. They had rods, boots, and waders if you needed them. For three trout lodges, SET employed 75 people: guides, kitchen staff, dedicated drivers, a cleaning crew, a sales staff, and a logistics team. High touch all around.
All of this mattered because we didn’t have to worry about uncertainties or gear. It also meant that SET attracted incredible guides. They were all amazing and very experienced. SET was viewed as an ideal employer because guides didn’t have to worry about driving, making lunches, cleaning boats and coolers, and caring for gear.
The fishing
Over six days we all landed many rainbows and browns. The first day was focused on bobbers to let everyone get acclimated. It wasn’t my favorite way to fish, but it was a nice way to see the waters.
So much of it reminded me of Montana: grasslands, ancient riverbanks in the distance (called “benches” in Montana), and waters crammed with fish. But in Patagonia the number of big fish was just unreal.
Every day the guides set up chairs and tables and cooked a hot lunch. There were cold drinks, plenty of food, and red wine for those who wanted it. It made for a nice break. Patagonia was a lot like Montana in this way, too: chilly mornings and scorching day temps. And usually very strong afternoon wind. So a mid-day break was always nice.
Dinner was always interesting and tasty. Patagonian beef and lamb were just delicious, often cooked over hardwood coals in a wood-fired clay oven. Summer produce was in full force, and the vegetables were varied and also amazing. There was a chef and pastry chef and two bartenders.
For me the highlights were many. I loved the overnight camping trip that allowed us to see the country and to fish rarely touched waters. I didn’t fish count, but one boat did: a pair of anglers boated 90-ish fish on day two of the camping float.
I also loved fishing two stillwaters: Lake Tromen was incredibly beautiful, and it was fun to throw streamers all day.
My three best fish were taken on: streamers or a size 20 CDC emerger. I will remember them for a long time. They were so strong!
I was fortunate to fish twice with Vinny, and we told our guides that we wanted to target big fish with streamers and dries and avoid bobbers. Quality and not quantity. The guides delivered. I didn’t get everyone’s Instagram but want to give a shout out to Paco Morgade, Mati Inalef, Facu Sanchez, Facu Tizzano, and Diego Cortez.
One day Vinny and I fished a reservoir and hunted for big fish at the inlet. 20”+ fish were the norm. It was like fishing at a zoo: we saw wild boar, ostriches, deer, llamas, and flamingos. We also came across fresh puma tracks.
I used a shooting head for the first time to attempt 60+ foot casts with Amnesia line. It was fun, and I eventually got the hang of it. The fish were not boat shy, and it was a hoot to see a big fish chase and eat.
On the last day we used a boat to transfer to some pristine wading water. After a long walk, Vinny and I sight cast to big fish, skipped lunch, and fished as hard as we could. Our guide was also excited: he had wanted to wade those waters for a long time. I suspect guides get tired of bobber fishing. Vinny and I felt it was an ideal way to spend our last day. 22K steps for me.
On the flight home, I saw the sun rise with wonderment at how beautiful the sky looked as it changed colors. I felt so immensely grateful for a trip I think will take me a while to process.
If you go
I would bring three rods. A 6-wt. is the go to. A 7-wt. for big streamers and very windy conditions. And a 5-wt. just in case (I didn’t use mine). I’d bring sinking line, but that is optional. The lodge had them.
We didn’t run into any rain, but precipitation there is common. Bring a very good raincoat and water proof pants. And many layers in case of a cold snap and for any overnight floats.
There is no need to bring flies, but I recommend bringing tippet, nippers, leaders, and a hook sharpener so that the guides can focus on the fishing and to minimize downtime.
A who’s who list of the fly fishing world goes to Patagonia, and many fish with SET. It is a truly special fishery and a unique outfitter.
Thank you, Vinny and Gustavo! One of the best weeks of my life!
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One heck of a Winter Break! Your going to be spoiled for local fishing!